From a gourmet's point of view the great interest in the restaurant will
lie, if he wishes to give a large dinner, in the Grand Seize or one of
the other private rooms; if he is going to dine alone, or is going to
take his wife out to dinner, in the triangular room on the ground floor
with its curtains of lace, its white walls, its mirrors and its little
gilt tripod in the centre of the floor. Duglere was the _chef_ who,
above all others, made history at the Anglais, and the present
proprietor, M. Burdel, was one of his pupils; and therefore the cookery
of Duglere is the cookery still of the Anglais. _Potage Germiny_ is
claimed by the Cafe Anglais as a dish invented by the house, but the
Maison d'Or across the way also laid claim to it, and told an anecdote
of its creation--how it was invented by Casimir for the Marquis de
St-George. The various fish _a la Duglere_ there can be no question
concerning, the _Barbue Duglere_ being the most celebrated; and the
_Poularde Albufera_ and the _Filet de Sole Mornay_ (which was also
claimed by the Grand Vefour) are both specialities of the house. You can
order as expensive a dinner as you will for a great feast at the
Anglais, and you can eat rich dishes if you desire it; but there is no
reason that you should not dine there very well, and as cheaply as you
can expect to get good material, good cooking, and good attendance
anywhere in the world.
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