Henri of
the Gaillon, Notta, Charles of Foyot's--all were trained at Paillard's.
The restaurant has its history, and its long list of great patrons. _Le
Desir de Roi_, which generally appears in the menu of any important
dinner at Paillard's, and which has _foie gras_ as its principal
component, has been eaten by a score of kings at one time or another,
our own gracious Majesty heading the list. The restaurant at first was
contained in one small room. Then the shop of Isabelle, the Jockey Club
flower-girl, which was next door, was acquired, and lastly another
little shop was taken in, the entrance changed from the front to its
present position at the side, the accountant's desk put out of sight,
and the little musicians' gallery built--for Paillard's has moved with
the time and now has a band of Tziganes, much to the grief of men like
myself who prefer conversation to music as the accompaniment of a meal.
The restaurant as it is with its white walls and bas-reliefs of cupids
and flowers, its green Travertine panels let into the white pilasters,
its chandeliers of cut glass, is very handsome. M. Paillard, hair parted
in the middle and with a small moustache, irreproachably attired,
wearing a grey frock-coat by day, and a "smoking" and black tie in the
evening, is generally to be seen superintending all arrangements, and
there is a _maitre-d'hotel_ who speaks excellent English, and a head
waiter with whiskers who deserted to Henri, but subsequently returned,
who is also an accomplished linguist.
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