Notta, 2 Bd. Poissoniere, and Noel Peters in the Passage des Princes,
both have claims to celebrity for their cooking, and the fish dishes at
the latter, the _Filet de Sole Noel_ for instance, are a speciality. The
Boeuf a la Mode, Rue de Valois, near the Palais Royale, is a place of
good cookery.
There are two restaurants to which I generally go if I want good food
but have not time to linger over it, having cut my time rather close
when going to a theatre or to catch a train. One of these is Lucas's in
the little square opposite the Madeleine, and the other is the
Champeaux, Place de la Bourse. Lucas has rather an old-fashioned
_clientele_ and his restaurant is not very bright, but the cooking is
good, and if in a hurry one is served very quickly. The _Hareng Lucas_
is an exceptionally stimulating _hors-d'oeuvre_, and there is a
selection of old brandies to choose from as liqueurs which I fancy
cannot be surpassed at any restaurant in Paris. The Champeaux, with its
garden and trees growing through the roof, is the restaurant of the
Bourse. It has a good cook, it has its specialities of cuisine, and it
has a particularly good cellar of wines. One can dine there in the
leisurely manner in which a dinner should be eaten by sane men; but the
_maitres-d'hotel_ used to business men know that there are occasions
when it is necessary to be in a hurry, and they can serve a dinner very
quickly.
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