At the Champeaux, which has much history behind it, the
_Chateaubriand_ was invented which gives eternal honour to the
restaurant.
I am told that Sylvain's remains a good dining place, but I have not
been within its doors since the days when it attained celebrity as a
supper place in favour with the butterfly ladies of Paris.
Across the River
On the south side of the Seine there are three restaurants worthy the
consideration of the gourmet,--the Tour d'Argent, La Peyrouse, and
Foyot's. The Tour d'Argent is on the Quai de la Tourelle, just beyond
the island on which Notre Dame stands. It is a little old-fashioned
place with a narrow entrance hall and a low-ceilinged parlour. Frederic
is its proprietor, and since Joseph of the Marivaux died Frederic
remains the one great "character" in the dining world of Paris. In
appearance he is the double of Ibsen, the same sweeping whiskers, the
same wave of hair brushed straight off from the forehead. He is an
inventor of dishes, and it is well to ask for a list of his "creations,"
which are of fish, eggs, meat, and fruit, and are generally named after
some patron of the establishment,--_Canape Clarence Mackay_, _Filet de
Sole Gibbs_, _Filet de Lievre Arnold White_, _Oeufs Claude Lowther_,
_Poire Wannamaker_, and so on.
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