Prunier's is the house at
which the travelling gourmet generally tastes his first snails, the
great Burgundian ones with striped shells, or the little gray fellows
from the champagne vineyards. If you eat Prunier's oysters you should
drink his white Burgundy. If you eat his snails, you should drink his
red wine, for he has some excellent red Burgundy.
Most travellers at least once in their lives go the round of Montmartre
and its Bohemian shows. I have dined with the great Fursy in the
restaurant attached to the Treteau de Tabarin, and was given good
substantial bourgeois cookery. I asked the singer of the "Chansons
Rosses" how it was that he, who girds at all things bourgeois and
commonplace, ran the restaurant on such simple and non-eccentric lines;
and he shrugged his shoulders, which I took to mean that you may trifle
with a man's intellect but not with his stomach. About two in the
morning, in the upstairs room at the Treteau, there is often some
amusement forward. Upstairs at the Rat Mort, you may dine in comfort
with _Soupe a l'Onion_ and _Tournedos Rat Mort_ in the menu; and at the
Abbaye de Theleme, and at the Restaurant Blanche in the place of that
name, you will find the artists and sculptors of the Butte.
In the Quartier, Thurion's in the Boulevard St-Germain is an interesting
restaurant for a wandering Anglo-Saxon to become acquainted with, for
there he will see most of the young Americans and English who are
climbing up the ladder of pictorial fame.
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