_Langoustes_ differ as much as a skinny fowl
from a _Poularde de Mans_. Mons. Echenard gets his from Corsica, and you
then learn how they can vary. He has also a _Poularde Reserve en Cocotte
Raviolis_, which is a dish to be remembered; and a small fat sole caught
between Hyeres and Toulon is not to be despised.
I am free to confess that the _Tutti Frutti de la Mare_, or stew
consisting of the many lovely and variegated small fish that are caught
in those waters, has no charm for me. Personally, I would as soon eat a
surprise packet of pins, but of course, _chacun a son gout_. Anyway, if
you are stranded in Marseilles for an afternoon or longer, you could go
to many a worse place than the Reserve.
I suppose it is not necessary for me to add to A.B.'s discourse any
description of what _Bouillabaisse_ is, or how the Southerners firmly
believe that this dish cannot be properly made except of the fish that
swim in the Mediterranean, the rascaz, a little fellow all head and
eyes, being an essential in the savoury stew, along with the eel, the
lobster, the dory, the mackerel, and the girelle. Thackeray has sung the
ballad of the dish as he used to eat it, and his _recette_, because it
is poetry, is accepted, though it is but the fresh-water edition of the
stew.
Pages:
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74