If you do not like oil, garlic, and saffron, which all come into
its composition, give it a wide berth. The _Brandade_, which is a
cod-fish stew and a regular fisherman's dish, is by no means to be
despised.
Before leaving the subject of Marseilles and its cookery and
restaurants, let me record the verdict of a true gourmet and Englishman
who always lives the winter through in Marseilles. He writes me that in
Marseilles itself there are no restaurants worthy of the name, the best
being Isnard's (Hotel des Phoceens), Rue Thubaneau, and another good one
that of the Hotel d'Orleans, Rue Vacon, where the proprietor and the
cook are brothers and charming people.
Those adventurous souls who wish to eat the fry of sea-urchins and other
highly savoury dishes, with strange shell-fish and other extraordinary
denizens of the deep as their foundation, should go to Bregaillon's at
the Vieux Port. It is necessary to have a liking for garlic and a nose
that fears no smells for this adventure; but if you bring your courage
to the sticking point, order a dozen _oursins_, a _petit poelon_, which
is a _tournedos_ in a _casserole_, and a _grive_. Cassis is the white
wine of the house; and it has some good Chateau Neuf de Pape.
Cannes
Cannes is the first important town of the Riviera that the gourmet
flying south comes to, and at Cannes he will find a typical Riviera
restaurant.
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