There are
tanks into which the water runs in and out with each little wave and in
these are the Marennes oysters and other shell-fish. Oysters, a
_Mostelle a l'Anglaise_--Mostelle being the especial fish of this part
of the world--and some tiny bit of meat is the breakfast I generally
order at the Beaulieu Reserve; but the cook is capable of high flights,
and I have seen most elaborate meals well served. The proprietors are
two Italians who also own the neighbouring hotel, and who take their
cook with them to Aix-les-Bains when they migrate during the summer to
the restaurant of one of the casinos there. A little band of Italian
singers and musicians add to the noise of this very merry little
breakfasting place.
At Villefranche there are two unpretentious inns where men with an
unnatural craving for _Bouillabaisse_ go and eat it, and return with a
strong aroma of saffron and garlic accompanying them, saying that they
have partaken of the real dish, such as the fishermen cook for
themselves, and not the stew toned down to suit civilised palates.
Monte Carlo
The first time that I stayed for a week or so in the principality, I
lodged at the Hotel du Monte Carlo, on the hill below the Post Office.
It was a dingy hotel then, not having been redecorated and brightened up
as it has been now; but it had the supreme attraction to a lieutenant in
a marching regiment of being cheap.
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