" To-morrow, there
was no dessert upon the menu. When the reason for this was demanded, he
simply answered, "You wanted a change, and you've got it. I shall give
no fruit in future." This has become a tradition. Notwithstanding, it is
a remarkable dinner, and there is usually a good variety of sweets. As a
tip to people who want to drink champagne and are sometimes deterred by
the high prices demanded for well-known brands, while being always
suspicious of the sugary _tisanes_ supplied on the Continent, I may
mention that the champagne wines bearing Mr. Wiltcher's own name and
labelled according to taste as Dry Royal and Grand Cremant respectively,
are specially bottled for his establishment at Rheims; and, though the
price is little more than half that charged for _les grandes marques_,
they will be found pure, wholesome, and to the English and American
taste. Wiltcher's is rapidly becoming essentially an American house.
Justine's is a little fish restaurant on the Quai au Bois a Bruler, by
the side of the fish market. It has distinctly a bourgeois character. It
is not the sort of place you would choose to take a lady in her summer
frocks to, but you get a fine fish dinner there nevertheless. There is
no restaurant in the world where _moules a la mariniere_ are served in
such perfection, and you can rely on every bit of fish supplied there
being fresh.
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