Zander, a fish which is partly
of the pike, partly of the trout species, is considered a great dainty.
The vegetables are generally spoiled in the cooking, being converted
into a _puree_ which might well earn the adjective "eternal." Even the
asparagus is spoilt by the native cook, being cut into inch cubes and
set afloat in melted butter. _Compotes_ sweet and sour, are served at
strange times during the repast, and lastly, as a sort of "old guard,"
the much-beloved but deadly Sauerkraut, made from both red and white
cabbage, is always brought up to complete the cook's victory. The
potatoes in Germany are generally excellent, the sandy soil being
suitable for their cultivation.
The cookery in the big hotels on much-frequented routes in Germany is
now almost universally a rather heavy version of the French art, with
perhaps a _compote_ with the veal to give local colour. In the small
hotels in little provincial towns the meals are served at the times that
the middle-class German of the north usually eats them, and are an
inferior copy of what he gets in his own home. As a warning I give what
any enterprising traveller looking for the food of the country from the
kitchen of a little inn may expect:--
Coffee at 8 A.M. with rolls, _Kaffee Broedchen_, and butter, and this
meal he will be expected to descend to the dining-room to eat.
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