I was
once at Lucerne during race week, and was doubtful whether I should find
a room vacant at either of the hotels I usually stay at. A charming old
priest, who was a fellow-voyager, suggested to me that I should come to
a little hotel hard by the river; and there, though the room I was given
was of the very old continental pattern, the dinner my friend ordered
for himself and me was quite excellent. I have breakfasted at the buffet
at the station and found it very clean, and the simple food was well
cooked. There is a restaurant at the Kursaal, but I have never had
occasion to breakfast or dine there.
In Northern Switzerland some of the towns have restaurants which are not
attached to hotels, and Basle has quite a number of them, though the
interest attaching to most of them is due to the quaintness of the
buildings they are in or the fine view to be obtained from them rather
than from any particular excellence of cookery or any surprisingly good
cellar. The restaurant in the Kunsthalle, for instance, is ornamented by
some good wall paintings; and by the old bridge there is a restaurant
with a pleasant terrace overlooking the river. There is a good cellar at
the Schutzenhaus, and there is music and a pretty garden as an
attraction to take visitors out to the Summer Casino.
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