Again, the delicate little envelopes of
paste containing forcemeat of some kind or another change their names
according to their contents and the town they are made in. They are
_Ravioli_ both at Genoa and Florence, but at Bologna they are
_Capeletti_, and at Turin _Agnolotti. Perpadelle_, another pasta dish
with a little difference of seasoning, becomes _Tettachine_ when the
venue changes from Bologna to Rome.
There are many minor differences in the components of similarly named
dishes at different towns; the _Minestrone_ of Milan and Genoa differ,
and so does the _Fritto Misto_ of Rome and Turin. I fancy that, as a
compensation, only an expert could tell the difference between the soups
_di Vongole_ at Naples, _di Dattero_ at Spezzia, and _di Peoci_ at
Venice.
The "Zabajone" the sweet, frothing drink beaten up with eggs and sugar,
is made differently in different towns. At Milan and Turin Marsala and
brandy are used in it; at Venice Cyprus wine is the foundation; and
elsewhere three wines are used. It is a splendidly sustaining drink,
whether drunk hot or iced, and Italian doctors order it in cases of
depression, and it might well find a place in the household recipes of
English and American households. The wines of the various towns I have
noted in writing of them.
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