"Vino nostrano" or "del paese" brings from the
waiter his list of the local juice of the grape, and the wine of the
district is the wine to drink. Roughly speaking, the red wine is the
best throughout Italy, the white of Bologna and the Veneto being the
exceptions. Finally, do not be alarmed if at a _trattoria_ a waiter puts
before you a huge flask of wine. It has been weighed before it is
brought to you. It will be weighed when the waiter takes it away after
you have finished, and what you have drunk, plus the great gulp the
waiter is sure to take if he gets a chance, is what you will be charged
for.
The Anglo-Saxon travelling in Italy is likely to strike Turin, or Milan,
or Genoa as his first big town, according to the route he has chosen,
and those are therefore the three towns the capabilities of which I
shall first try to describe.
Turin
You will be fed well enough at your hotel whether you are at the Grand,
or Kraft's, or the Trombetta, but if you want to test the cookery of the
town I should suggest a visit to the Ristorante della Meridiana, which
is in the Via Santa Theresa, the street which joins the Piazza Solferino
and San Carlo; or to the Ristorante del Cambio, which is in the Piazza
Carignano, where stands a marble statue of a philosopher and which has a
couple of palaces as close neighbours.
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