Wherever one dines and wherever one breakfasts there are
certain Milanese dishes which one should order. The _Minestrone_ soup is
a dish which is not only found all Italy over but which is popular in
Austria and on the French Riviera as well; but the _Minestrone alla
Milanese_, with its wealth of vegetables and suspicion of Parmesan, is
especially excellent. The _Risotto Milanese_, rice slightly _saute_ in
butter, then boiled in capon broth, and finally seasoned with Parmesan
and saffron, is one of the celebrated Milanese dishes, but the simpler
methods of serving _Risotto, al sugo, al burro_, or _con fegatini_ suit
better those who do not like saffron; or better still is a very
well-known dish of another town, _Risotto Certosino_, in which the rice
is seasoned with a sauce of crayfish and garnished with their tails.
Then come the various manners of cooking veal, the _Cotelette a la
Milanese_, cutlets plunged in beaten eggs and fried in butter after
being crumbed, and others stewed with a little red wine and flavoured
with rosemary; and the _Cotelette alla Marsigliese_, of batter, then
ham, then meat which, when fried, is one of the dishes of the populace
on a feast-day. _Ossobuco_, a shin of veal cut into slices and stewed
with a flavouring of lemon rind, is another veal dish; and so is the
delicate _Fritto Picatto_ of calf's brains, liver, and tiny slices of
flesh.
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