_Polpette a la Milanese_ are forcemeat balls stewed. _Panettone_
are the cakes of the city and are much eaten at Carnival time.
Stracchino or Crescenza is a cheese much like the French _Brie_.
Gorgonzola all the world knows well; and though Parmesan takes its name
from that Duchess of Parma who introduced it into France, the best
quality comes from Lodi, near Milan. Val Policella and Valle d'Inferno
are the wines to drink.
Genoa
Genoa is a town of noise and bustle. The worst curse one Genoese can
pronounce to another is "May the grass grow before your door." The
Genoese restaurants have not the best reputation in the world for either
cleanliness or quiet; but at the Concordia, in the Via Garibaldi, you
will find a cool and pleasant garden; and at the Gottardo you will
discover the Genoese cookery in all its oily perfection, for the
important difference between the cuisine of Genoa and of every other
Italian town is that all its dishes are prepared with olive oil instead
of butter.
Of course Genoa has its own especial _Minestrone_ soup flavoured with
_Pesto_, a paste in which pounded basil, garlic, Sardinia cheese, and
olive oil are used; and the fish dishes are _Stocafisso alla Genovese_,
stock-fish stewed with tomatoes and sometimes with potatoes as well, and
a fry of red mullet, and _Moscardini_, which are cuttle-fish, oblong in
shape and redolent of musk.
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