At the Florian Cafe, which in the summer keeps open all the night
through, one gets the frothing _Zabajone_ made so stiff that a spoon
stands upright in it.
There are many _birrerie_ in Venice, the Dreher being one frequented by
the Italians.
The _Zuppa di Peoci_ is a soup made from the little shell-fish called
"peoci" in Venice, and appearing under other names at Spezzia and
Naples, and so fond are the Venetians of it that they flavour their rice
with sauce made from it and call it _Riso coi peoci. Baccala_, or
salt-cod, and _Calamai_, little cuttle-fish or octopi, looking and
tasting like fried strips of soft leather, are native dishes not to be
recommended; but the _Anguille di Comacchio_, the great eels from
Comacchio, grilled on the spit between bay leaves, or fried or stewed,
are excellent. Another Venetian dish which I can strongly recommend is
the _Fegato alla Veneziana_, calf liver cut into thin slices, fried with
onions in butter, and flavoured with lemon juice. Stewed larks, with a
pudding of Veronese flour, are satisfying, and a sausage from the
neighbouring Treviso, which also gives its name to the _Radici di
Treviso_, is much esteemed. The _Pucca baruca_ is one of the big yellow
pumpkins baked. The wines are, of course, those of the mainland,
Conegliano from Treviso and Val Policella from Verona.
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