Bologna
"Bologna la grassa" does not belie its nick-name, and it is said that
the matronly ladies, all over forty, who cook for the rotund priests,
are the _cordons bleus_ of Italy. The restaurant of the Hotel Brun is
the one where the passing Anglo-Saxon generally takes his meals and a
chat with the proprietor, who is generally addressed as Frank, is
entertaining, for he owns vineyards behind the town, which he is happy
to show to any one interested in vine-culture, and he makes his wine
after the French manner. The Hotel d'Italie is more an Italian house,
and the Stella d'Italia, in the Via Rizzoli, is the typical popular
restaurant of the town. At the Albergo Roma, on the Via d'Azeglio, I
have lunched on good food for a couple of francs.
The _Coppaletti_ I have already referred to. The _Perpadelle col
Ragout_ are made of the same dough as the French _nouilles_, in narrow
strips boiled and seasoned with minced meat and Parmesan cheese. Another
variety of this _Perpadelle alla Bolognese_ has minced ham as a
seasoning. Then come the far-famed sausages, the great _Codeghino_,
boiled and served with spinach or mashed potatoes; the large,
ball-shaped _Mortadella_, which is sometimes eaten raw; and the stuffed
foreleg of a pig, which is boiled and served with spinach and mashed
potatoes and which is a dish the Bolognese "conveyed" from Verona.
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