The Roma in the Corso, and the Colonna in
the Piazza Colonna, are the typical city restaurants; but they have a
leaning towards the French cuisine. To eat the food of Rome, try La
Venete in the Via Campo Marzio, which has a garden; or, more distinctive
still, the Tre Re, hard by the Pantheon, where you must talk Italian, or
else make signs.
Bucci, in the Piazza della Coppelle, is the Scott's or Driver's of Rome,
and you can dine or lunch there off shell-fish soup, and the fish which
comes from Anzio and the other fishing villages of the coast.
There is a curious restaurant close by the station, Vagliani is, I
fancy, the owner, where artichokes are the staple fare, and where the
decorations are in keeping with the food. You will find the foreign
colony of art students--Danes, Norwegians, Germans--in the restaurants
of the Via delle Crace, Coradetti, where the food is well cooked but
served without any unnecessary luxury, being perhaps the best
eating-house; but the real haunt of the artist in Rome is, at the
present time, the Trattoria Fiorella in the Via delle Colonelli. Only do
not go and stare at him while he is taking his meals, for if you do, he
will go elsewhere to another _trattoria_, the position of which he will
keep a dead secret. Of course there are Roman dishes without number, and
these are some of the best known of them:--
The _Zuppa di Pesce_ is a _Bouillabaisse_ without any saffron.
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