In those happy days one could dine or lunch at either
place sumptuously for a shilling. Some meddling busybody interfered in
the quarrel and brought the proprietors into a friendly spirit. The
Gambrinus, with its bright rooms, good decorations, and fair attendance,
is perhaps the best restaurant at which a stranger can take a meal,
unless he is looking for the distinctive Neapolitan cookery. If he is in
search of the dishes of the town, let him try the Europa or, better
still for his purpose, the Vermouth di Torino in the Piazza del
Municipio. To eat the fish dishes which show the real cookery of Naples
better than any other, he should go out on a moonlight night a couple of
miles to the Antica Trattoria dello Scoglio di Frisio, or to the less
aristocratic Trattoria del Figlio di Pietro in the Strada Nuova del
Posilipo.
Of the macaroni I have already written. The splendid tomatoes grown in
Naples, which are cooked with it, give it its particular excellence. It
is also seasoned with cheese. _Spagetti alle Vongole_ is the macaroni
seasoned with the little shell-fish of the place. _Zuppa di Vongole_ is
a clear soup of bread and _Vongole_. _Polpi alla Luciana_ are small
octopi stewed in an earthern pot with oil, tomatoes, chilli, and red
wine. Between the pot and the lid a sheet of oiled paper is placed, to
prevent the steam from escaping.
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