This is the
hour to see Pupp's at its best. In the little grove of trees before the
house, where the big band-stand is, there is an array of tables, each
with its lamp upon it. In the outside verandah of the great restaurant
there are more tables, and inside the glazed verandah and in two long
rooms, each rising a step above the other, are a host of people supping.
The scene is like some great effect at a theatre, and I know nowhere
where one can find any restaurant shining with light as Pupp's does on a
summer night. The restaurant in the Stadtpark is always crowded when the
band plays there, but the attendance is very hurried and casual, and
contrasts badly with Pupp's and the other first-class restaurants. At
the two Variety Theatres in the lower town one can, by booking a table
in advance, sup fairly comfortably, and listen while one sups to a very
good variety entertainment.
At Gieshuebl, where Herr Mattoni makes a fortune by bottling the spring
water, and which is little more than an hour's drive from Carlsbad,
there is an excellent restaurant where the fare is the same as that
found in Carlsbad.
Marienbad
All that I have written of Carlsbad, concerning its food and drink,
applies to Marienbad. There is the same freedom as to dining-places, and
on a sunny day a man will take his meal in one of the creeper-grown
bowers which are erected on the edge of the park by the hotels which
face it, or at the Kursaal garden.
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